Mount Manaslu is 8163meter, was first climbed in 1953 by a Japanese team north face expedition. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word manias, meaning “intellect” or “soul”. It is the same root word as that for Mansarovar, the holy lake near Mt. Kailash in Tibet. Just as the British considered Everest their mountain, Manaslu 8,163 meters has been always regarded as the “Japanese mountain” by the Japanese; because of the Japanese people’s first conquered on its Top.
Manaslu, HW Tillman, and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950. But the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952. A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Budi Gandaki valley in 1953. When another team followed in 1954, The villagers of Sama gaon told them the first team had been responsible for an avalanche that destroyed a monastery & refused to let the 1954 expedition to climb. The expedition set off to climb Ganesh Himalaya instead.
Despite a large donation for the rebuilding of the monastery, subsequent Japanese expeditions, including the one that made the first ascent in 1956, took place in an atmosphere of animosity and mistrust. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. There was a South Korean attempt in 1971, and in April 1972 an avalanche that killed five climbers. And 10 Sherpas ended the second made the fourth ascent of mount Manaslu, as a member of a Tyrolean expedition that climbed from the Marshyangdi valley in 1972. So Manaslu 8163meter is one of the very renowned lovely mountains in the world to which many foreigner enthusiasts to climb very curiously.
CLIMBING ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Manaslu has many interesting routes leading to the common summit and many of them were climbed and explored. The standard commercial route is along the original route of the 1956 Japanese expedition up the Northeast face.
The climb is straightforward and only slightly more technical then Cho Oyu or Shishapangma, however with low Base Camp it is a long climb and with relatively high objective avalanche risk.
Camp 1: is located at 5700m at the bottom of the North Peak right above the glacier on a protected area.
Camp 2: is located at the safe section of the climb on a relatively flat area at 6400m. In this camp, there can be a lot of snow accumulation.
Camp 3: can be reached walking 3 hours from camp 2 and lies at 6800m height just below the col to avoid the very strong winds to ensure the safety.
Camp 4: is at 7400m. The ultimate summit is reached by an exposed technical traverse for around a distance of 70 meter. It takes around 6 to 8 hours climb.
Upon arrival in Kathmandu’s International Airport, meet assist and transfer to Hotel. Where welcome refreshments will be served and room check in assistance will be provided. Rest of the day till dinner is free for rest and relaxation.
Eve: Welcome dinner at authentic Nepali Restaurant followed by Nepali Cultural Program.
After breakfast start drive via Kathmandu – Pokhara Highway to Malekhu. Leaving Highway continue to drive to Dhading Besi and to Arughat for lunch. After lunch continue drive through unpaved road to Machhakhola passing through Soti and Likhu Village.
After breakfast, cross the Machha Khola- Fish Stream- and head upstream to the tiny village of Khola Bensi and the hot springs at Tatopani (which I want to investigate). The valley sides steepen until they are impassable and the route then switches to the left bank by way of a suspension bridge. The trail is quite exposed and challenging in places. After a short section of forest path we reach the single tea house at Doban. Above Doban, the Buri Gandaki descends an impressive series of rapids. Beyond this steep section, the river is much more placid, meandering across a broad gravel bed. At Lauri, we re cross the river on a suspension bridge and then climb on a high path to the fields of Jagat, where we camp.
After descending a long series of stone steps to the river, treks climb a terraced hill to Saguleri, from where we can see the impressive Sringi Himal, 7187m. Crossing the river again, at Gata Khola, the path splits, with the right–hand branch heading off towards the Mustang. Our route continues upstream, through a gorge section with towering walls. We cross the river three more times in the next two hours to avoid difficult valley sides and then climb up over a further steep spur to reach the village of Deng, where we camp.
The valley is still steep- sided and most impressive. We cross to the village of Lana, and start to see mani stones, a sure sign that we are entering high country Buddhist regions. After only about four hours we reach our overnight place at the village of Ghap, which straddles the river. We have entered the Tibetan areas and the cultural change is obvious, and the climate change is also obvious the trekking is pleasantly cool now, as we start to fain the altitude.
We gain altitude to take us into alpine territory and increasing mountain views. There are more mani walls and 3 more crossing of the Buri Gandaki on our route to Namrung, where our permit is checked. Above this village the valley opens out and there are extensive pastures. Climbing climb gently now, and cross a large stream flowing down from the Lidanda Glaciers, and reach the Tibetan village of Sho, at an altitude of 3,000m / 9,840 ft. Here we witness our first incredible views of the Manaslu North and then of Manaslu main ahead.
Let the exploring start! We will discuss with locals what our best option is to get to the Gompa. Our sherpas reckon it could be a very nice walk to take the smaller direct trail…. We pass thru Lho, a large village at 3150m where there is a lovely little monastery and numerous chortens and manis. Looking back Ganesh I is visible. Leaving the village, we follow the right bank of the river, with views of Peak 29 ahead. At a fork in the trail, we take a detour to the left, which leads up to Honsansho Gompa and the Pungen Glaciers, from where there is a stunning view of Peak 29 and Manaslu.
Climbing period for Manaslu begins now on. The day-to-day itinerary for the climbing period will be determined by the expedition leader and members. Guides will take a flexible approach based on what fits with climbers’ and their own experience. Typically, the team will spend a few days at the base camp organizing food, practicing rope skills, and acclimatizing before moving above the base camp. From base camp, there will be 4 camps set up until you reach summit. Base camp is in comfortable position on rock and protected from winds. Make sure to acclimatize well before you start climbing higher altitude. Enough time needs to be allowed for bad weather and slow acclimatization. Summit push will be normally at the mid night. So that team reached at top early in the morning. Catch breathtaking sunrise and surrounding view then get back to base camp before getting affected by heat. After summiting, withdraw from the mountain removing all equipment and rubbish and taking it back to Base camp.
Hotel accommodation (Hotel Shangri la or Similar) in Kathmandu as per Itinerary on twin sharing basis inclusive of taxes and breakfast.
Government Mountaineering Royalty.
Sherpa and Equipment destination charges.
Necessary porters and mules for carrying equipment & loads
Lodge or Tent accommodation during the trek.
All meals during the trek and Climb.
All camping services include all meals, a separate group dining tent with folding tables and chairs, separate toilet and shower tents and fully equipped kitchen etc.
Solar panels for lighting systems and charging electronic devices.
Per person 60 kg member luggage allowance.
Team of experienced cooks and his Kitchen team in the Base Camp.
High Altitude meals while climbing above Base Camp with EPI gas and burner.
Life and Medical Insurance for the Nepalese support team.
Oxygen for members 4 bottles each for members and 3 bottles each for climbing Sherpas.
Hyperbolic Chambers (Gammow Bags) for the expedition.
Complete and comprehensive First Aid Kit bag.
Company administrative service charges.
6 High Altitude Sherpa Support Team and 2 High Altitude Leaders.
Services not Inclued
International Airfare from UAE to Kathmandu and back.
Personal Climbing gears & equipments.
Round trip Helicopter charter costs for members (Quoted separately)
Lunch and dinner except welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu.
Any special climbing food above the base camp apart from those we will provide.
Items of personal nature such as bar bills, laundry, telephone calls, internet services, extra mileage, personal gratuities etc.
Tips for Expedition support members.
Summit bonus per Sherpa approximately US$ 800.00
Insurance policy to cover illness, hospitalization, medications, operations, loss of valuables, cancellation owing to natural calamities or conditions beyond our control
including Emergency Air and Surface rescue.
Rope fixing charges.
Kitchen Crew, logistics crew performance tips.
Satellite phone (pay call)
Personal satellite phone with e-mail and internet permits etc.
Cost per person in US Dollars
The per person cost for the group of 20 persons
Single supplement only at hotel in Kathmandu
Cost of helicopter charter for sector Aarughat to Samagaun and back from Base Camp to Aarughat